This is a Romanov. She is strikingly beautiful. Though she is not the woman whose photograph would later captivate me, when I saw this image of Princess Olga and she took my breath away...I felt she was a good way to convey how I felt the day I DID see the visage of the stranger on the other end of the phone.

Dear Ether,

Somewhere in Odessa there is a photograph of me.  It might be stored away gently in a envelope.  It may be crudely covered in rubble in a dump.  But somewhere…..somewhere in the Ukraine there is a snapshot of me taken when I was in my mid 20’s.

The original keeper of the photo was a woman I never met.  She spoke no English and I no Russian.  My glossy print sat on her mantelpiece for about 5 years in her modest studio flat.  It shared space with images of her grandchildren, husband and daughter and a few tattered black and white photos that survived the war.

English gent is half Russian.  His mother is this woman’s daughter.  To me she was only known as Babushka.

I only spoke to her a few times on the phone.  I muttered foolish statements that English gent had taught me.  “Ya Loo-Bloo Tibia” (I love you).  She laughed with good nature into the phone and repeated. “Ya Loo-Bloo Tibia Tour-Jah” (I love you too).  It felt sad that I was crippled by language and couldn’t communicate with a woman who I knew had a tremendous history and warmth.  I had never been handicapped by language before—in fact, it was something I was so good at.  I always handed over the receiver feeling like a puppet who’d just done her job entertaining.

One day, I asked to see her photograph during a visit to English gent’s house.  His clan are a family of pale, fair-haired, light eyed, slim people.  Babushka was in her twenties in the photo I was shown.  She couldn’t have been more than 5 feet tall.  She had coffee-colored hair and brown pupils. I know it seems crazy, but I felt a sudden closeness to her.  I felt she was from my stock.  That English gent’s genes had all come from his father’s UK side (and even his mother was shockingly fair—she didn’t resemble Babushka at all).  Though I’m much taller, we were both the dark horses.  I asked English gent’s mom if I could send Babushka MY photo.  I felt if that made me feel a connection to her where words couldn’t, maybe my photo could create the same spark.

When she received my photo, Gent told me she cried.  That she “understood.”  She loved my dark looks—and it made her so happy that he was with someone who reminded her of her heritage.  After that, I made sure no longer to be a marionette on the phone but to have a translator and convey true feelings across the line.

But, as we all know, time is a harsh enemy.  And she was not young.  She no longer could speak on the phone or read letters.  And then she died.  When English gent’s mother went to her flat for the last time, she said she noticed my photo immediately.  It stood out more than the others and looked as though it had been fingered the most.  It was slightly dog-eared and had many fingerprints on its finish.  I like to think that she passed it around for many to see.  By the time Gent’s mom came back to clean the flat, the mantle had been tidied and to this day, those pictures have never resurfaced.

Though we never got to know each other, when we looked into one another’s eyes from so far away, we had an understanding.  I often wonder what my photo got to see in her little flat?  I wonder what aromas surrounded it as she cooked her traditional meals?

Wherever I am in Odessa, decaying in a landfill or safe in a drawer, at least I can say for a moment in time a picture spoke a thousand words for both of us.

Dedicatedly yours,

—One of 365

Dear Ethers,

My sincerest apologies for last week’s debacle.  I made a fashion faux pas.  I let you down with my end of week clothing choice pairing a fabulous jacket, amazing shoes, a beautiful top, a lovely necklace and (though there is some debate about this one) a beautiful skirt together to make my self look like a 40 year old bridge player (See Last Week: Fashion Friday). I know many of you felt that the skirt was too old for me.  I am very 50/50 on this.  It is a Nicole Farhi skirt and in person it literally looks like a watercolor painting on pleated fabric.  I used to be heavier than I am now.  Many of my clothes are too big for me and therefore don’t flatter.  I mentioned this in the post—–it hit me poorly in the leg and I had to wear something over the skirt to cover up the sagging waistline.  In hindsight, I never should have even shown the skirt at all.  I HAVE brought back a relic from last week to show you how frickin’ fab a piece of that outfit is when put together correctly.  You’ll remember it when you see it.  So again, do not lose faith from my blunder.  Out of 52, I hope to only fail once or twice making the rest of the weeks a success.  Hey, I haven’t done too badly so far, right?

So, to make up for the horrors of last week, I went all out for you Ethers.  I went for the uber grand.  Lush velvet trousers from Chloe, stunning beaded jacket from Reiss………it really is damned lovely.  I will say, the Chloe’s are slightly too big (I told you, I have lost weight since their purchase) but this time they work in a cool, slouch kind of way.  Excited?

So…you know how I wrote about the Russian Revolution taking over makeup (See Beauty Post: Beauty Trend: Say “Da” For Russia!)?  Well, this week our girl has taken on that trend in fashion and is our Russian devushka.  She’s wearing lush fabrics, sensuous colors and the neckline on the shirt reminds me of the Chanel ads of the models wearing high-neck, severe collars.  She’s come West for a day of shopping.  (Yeah, well, most  of us would wear this to a cocktail event).  Her chaffeur is taking her to all of the high-end shops to enhance her already luxe wardrobe and then she’s off to a very dimly lit restaurant to dine with ex-pats for a meal in a heavily decorated private room.  She’s not too trendy.  Her look is classy, but her pieces are individual.  The materials are unique and you can tell are fine quality.  Though she isn’t wearing something straight off the catwalk and looking ridiculously over the top, you can tell she knows her fashion, but she also knows the limits of class.  Her English is perfect as is her French and she has a penchant for Jane Austen AND Catherine the Great (and maybe a soft spot for the silly Marie Antoinette). Let’s take a look at our revised Fashion Friday and say “pri-Vet” (Hello) to Madame X.

Ya Loo-Bloo Tibia Tor-Ja (I love you as well) Ethers!  Enjoy! (Aren’t you proud of my Russian!?)

Kra-si-va-ya! (Beautiful!) The colors match perfectly. From the burgundy in the trousers and the top to the whites in the pattern in the shirt and the coat. Notice our old friends from last week poking out from the hemline of the trouser bottom? Yeah, they don't look too "babushka" like now, do they? And the bracelet with the purple hues and a vintage feel with the cameo. The details are so much prettier in person. If you could see it live, the colors and the effect---so much more dazzling. Trust me, this is MUTED compared to how luscious this outfit really is.

You know when you go into a store at the beginning of a season and see something and pray that if any are left when the sales start that there will be one in your size. And if there is one in your size, the mark-down price will still be cheap enough to afford? I visited Reiss every 3 days during the winter sales and watched this jacket. It vanished from store to store. I was devastated. And then on a fluke, I had come from a PR meeting and gloomily walked into a Reiss in Covent Garden. I went in and, SHOCK, I saw my glittering jacket. I knew it was about 100 quid too much and they wouldn't have my size. I first looked at the price tag. My hands started to shake. The fucking thing had been marked down to 49 pounds (from almost 300 pounds). Trembling, the first one was an x-small. I thought if I had to, I would cut out all bread, meat and only eat greens. But then, I fingered the tag of the one next to it and it was A SMALL!! I looked to see if it was missing sequins or a button. It was perfect. "That was just returned today," the sales girl said. "Bargain." I have worn this jacket on very few occasions. It is extremely delicate, slightly heavy, and beyond spectacular. It is one of my favorite finds. Our Russian girl probably would have paid full price and snagged it without the anxiety, but Ethers, let's come back to reality and step away from our Fashion Friday's story for a moment. This set of digits didn't have the cash flow our Faberge fashionista did....but man....when I wear it I feel like catwalk queen Natalia Vodianova. White Embellished Jacket, Originally About 300 sterling, Paid 49 sterling, Reiss, London

This is a really lovely cotton top that is elegant and has a pleasant paisley pattern that meshes perfectly with the flow of the outfit. It really is there to work as a color layer for the look but mainly I chose it for it's Edwardian-esque collar. I LOVE how high and ruffled the neck is (hard to see in the photo). I think if you have a long, lean, neckline this is such an elegant piece because it pokes out from the jacket and makes a statement that you don't need to make any longer with jewelery. Collars and ruffled fronts are very in right now so this is a great little addition to the wardrobe. Burgundy Blouse, $50, Banana Republic, Los Angeles

Many years ago, when this young Yankee landed in England, she visited a store called Selfridges and fell in love....but not with the prices. However, her first Christmas sales came. She was savvy. She waited until the last day. The place was desolate. What was left was pretty dire, and had 3-4 red lines through the markdown tickets. But out of the corner of her eye in the Chloe section, a section no girl in University had any business being in, she saw the most luscious pair of burgundy, velvet trousers. They were not in her size, but for the price, tailoring would do. I'll reveal the deal at the end... Our Russian look is all about the fabrics being rich and luxurious. I've always thought of velvet as epitomizing this. Even a touch of velvet in a hair ribbon, or on a bow of a shoe...it can add such elegance. I love how our girl has so many different fabrics. I love the casual cut of the trouser, but the statement the color and fabric make. This is a dress pant, but done young and hip. As for the price....Chloe Trousers, Originally 750 sterling, Paid 44 sterling (HA!), Selfridges, London

And YOU thought THESE were GRANNY shoes! Our Czarina doesn't think so! HMPH! They are perfect with the colors because the pink brings out the burgundy so well and just the tip of the shoe shows so you get just a splash of color. I like that they are classic and modern meshed into one. I adore these shoes--no matter what anyone says! And I think they are the perfect touch to this classy cool that she's working. Pink Flapper Style Shoes, Office Sale Shop, Originally 80 sterling Paid 40 sterling, London

This is just a brooch with a pendant attachment that I stuck onto a couple of skinny bangles. I liked the whole idea of a cameo--but this one is funked out in the right color tones. The cameo is something opulent and rich and something I could see a Russian mother passing down to her daughter. I just thought it would add to the classiness of the look and also the uniqueness. I like how it hangs down on the hand. It's obviously faux-jewelery, but let's pretend for our girl it's a vintage piece that's made of amethyst, gold, moonstone and amber. Can you fly with this one with me? Styled Bracelet, Unknown Price, London Market, London

Say hello to YOUR little friend! At a mere 3,000 pounds sterling this Matriochka Russian Enamel Bracelet Bag is the beginning of the Russian Revolution hitting the runways this fall. If you wanna be hip to the catch, you better bring out Babushka's old scarves because at these prices, we're talking a Faberege lifestyle and in this recession, it ain't gonna happen (at least this for this 3 digit lady). But one way you CAN emulate the look is through your beauty wardrobe. I'm reporting on the latest beauty trend: The Cold War Russian With Money! And you don't have to spend a ton of rubles to look like a million rubles! Ahhh if Gorbachev could see me now....too bad he's lugging around all that LV luggage (what was up with that ad?!)

Dear Ether, 

I’ve been checking out the beauty trends coming up for this fall.  It looks like it’s going to be Cold War Russia, but this time these Soviets are gonna be able to show off what they’ve got without having to worry about being turned into the authorities for digging Western culture and its riches.  Chanel is even dedicating their collection to the land of borscht this season!

It’s about being over the top with big hair (we’re talking mousse making a comeback and hairspray becoming a staple of your beauty wardrobe—screw the ozone)—the higher the coif the closer to heaven!  And eyes, eyes, eyes!  Smudges of kohl all the way to your temples and colors that you didn’t even know were possible to create in shadow form going all the way up in 3 tone layers to your brow bone.  And if it glitters girl, pile it on, because if you shine you are on trend.  And remember how frosted lips were something out of a Bret Easton Ellis novel?  No more!  Marc Jacobs was showing pastels with a pearlized frost that would make you wish you hadn’t thrown out all of those Wet N’ Wild tubes you thought were make-up corpses. And the paler the skin the better the canvas to highlight the hues on your face.  Would you wear this look to the market?  No.  Would you even wear this look to a dinner party?  Again, probably not.  This is definitely a runway look that is for younger folks wanting to make a statement at a nightclub or major event.  I don’t even see film stars emulating this—though they may exaggerate smoky eyes and play with color a bit more. 

Wowza! She's got it all. The pale skin, the kohl eyes, the 80's blusher, the multi-color shadow tiers all the way up to the brow-bone. And the hair. Not only has she re-worked the chignon, but also the quiff in the front. This girl better not stand too close to anything flammable because that coif will go up in flames in 2 seconds with all of that hairspray infused in it. But, she is a PRIME example of our 80's Russian girl working it!

This is directly from the Marc Jacobs show. Notice the frosted lips, the really heavily shaded eyes and the lilac, luminized cheeks. Everything is so exaggerated, including her hair. The skin is so pale, so that the eyes are really the attention grabber. Her hair almost looks like it's been dyed gray because of all of the product that's been sprayed in it. Super drama. Major 80's. If you'd wanna copy this look it is workable. Just take away the wing part at the brow bone and keep the shadowing on the lid and under the eye. For more eye drama, try fake black lashes, or pile on the mascara. Keep the skin pale, but instead of using a lilac shade of blush, go for a pinker color and use a luminizer that is less pearlized and more glowing. With the lips add a buttery gloss. You'll get a great effect, but not so icy and dramatic.

Besides the bonkers hair, I actually think this is the most realistic makeup from the runway. The make-up is by Nars. It is really "done" of course, but it isn't totally impossible to wear. I think the double cat eye kohl is really a cute idea and I like the color hues that have been chosen. She doesn't look so severe and deathly pale. I wouldn't go for the pinkish shadow OVER the eyebrow (yikes) but I do like what's happening with the profile. Is this an everyday look--again--no, but I think if you are trying to make a statement and want to capture the runway, this is the most feasible. Again, sans the hair.

Great brands that have color palettes that would really rock it hard would be Mac, Shu Uemura and Nars.  These guys are always on the cutting edge of color and you won’t have to worry about losing out in terms of choices.  Mac Pigments are my favorite.  They are shimmery and come in fab colors so you get the best of both worlds.  Just make sure to blow on the brush once you’ve dipped it in the pigment—a little goes a long way and the dust falls easily on your face.  A fan brush is a good solution if you DO get pigment spillage on cheeks or under eyes.  Try pigments “Golden Olive” mixed with “Deep Blue Green” if you have brown eyes.  This color combo will be slightly “out there” but still classy enough to not look too bonkers.  I also always advocate as a kohl liner Mac “Smolder.”  I have been using it for years and never deviate.  It is the best in terms of smudge-ability and it lasts the night.  It’s also a deep black so it will act as the perfect frame for your color canvas.  If you really want to go wild, try the Shu Uemura false eyelash route.    In their Tokyo Lash Bar 2009 they have a pair called “Marine Tide” that are supposed to emulate a wave from the sea and they are the most amazing shades of blue and white.  They also have a wonderful bend and curl making them even more striking.  Imagine that with deep, smoky black eyes—major statement!  But check out their other options at http://bit.ly/waZDy and pick from dozens of spectacular works of art to make your own decision about how you want to play it up.  

I’ve always been a color girl.  I’ve been using pigments since their inception and love playing with layers of shading.  I’m a believer of the statement eye.  Many people believe in a clean, classic look with a taupe shadow, bronzer/blusher, mascara, and a lovely tinted gloss.  That’s just not me.  I think you can get the same classy look with a lot more funk.  So, I’m really psyched that in the dreary season ahead color is embraced.  But, as always, runway looks are exaggerated.  Take these ideas and play around.  The best way to gage how make-up is being worked from the runway to the “real-way” is by watching the celebs as I mentioned earlier.  A-lister make-up artists know how to strike the balance and will guide you to making the trend normal and glamorous without looking like Zsa Zsa Gabor!  Who knew the Kremlin would be so influential this season? 

Nostrovia!

Look how colorful the Kremlin is! I wonder if this is where the designers and the make-up artists got their palette inspirations from. Those wonderful onion turrets are so fantastic, and so on trend! The Kremlin is, like, so HOT, right now!

Dedicatedly yours, 

—One of 365